Posts Tagged ‘florence’

Florence, Italy, Part 2 of 2

// July 11th, 2005 // Comments Off // Excursions

[Continued from Florence, Italy, Part 1 of 2](http://andy.ciordia.info/articles/2005/06/08/florence-italy-part-1-of-2)


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We tracked back to a Cafe that had a plethora, (yea I said it), plethora, of panini’s and sweet yummies. I never figured out how, or who makes up these cases of items. If someone out their does, let me know. Every cafe/snackbar has a supply of foodstuffs, do they make them? Do others? Is the general rule of thumb to stock and run out and thats that, or make more on demand? Not having a handle on the language to that degree I couldn’t navigate business, just observation for the most part.

Freya had informed us of some cafe’s to check out so we hit up Gili’s, Paszkowski’s, & Cafe Rivore. Each one of these was a rather historical and popular piazza location. We tried many little desserts at these places from amaretti’s to nonni’s, a flan to cioccolato. All three of these places worked a little latte art mojo. Hearts for my lady, rosetta’s for me. We spoke to their barista and learned that they had worked there somewhere in the 3-5 year range. These guys really work it spinning all sorts of little concotions from the bar to the espresso machine. Lots of small movements, well formed enviornments, and being highly used to burst capacity needs. Really fun to watch. Again though, lacking enough language was a barrier to having any real deep conversations, but it was fun to work on non-verbal communication.

We took a day off of anything planned by just wandering. Robin and I like to wander. Sometimes its with purpose, sometimes its just which way our gut pulls us. We figured out in hindsight that you need three days in all places so you can afford a day to just be mellow. Heading to dinner we stumbled upon [d. Bartolini](http://www.dinobartolini.it/). Reminds me of what [Sur la Table](http://www.surlatable.com/) is, but a bit bigger. The staff was very friendly and we quickly found a line of cups from “Thun”. Really cute series of cups, and also found their catalog showing they had a rather extensive collection. We have so far researched it down to a Czech company and a few european resellers but I haven’t translated enough to find one that will ship to the States.

The day of rest was good since the next day we were off on our day trip to Siena & San Gimignano. Robin slept on the trip while I looked out the bus windows and worked on balancing levels of photos. We arrived in Siena about 10am or so, clouds were rolling in, you could smell rain in the air. Meeting our local guide we were off to the races learning about Siena’s history, the competition and wars with Florence, what the Medici did upon conquering, banks, districts, churches, monestaries, piazza, oh my. Coming out of Siena’s duomo we were met with the rain. Robin and I generally don’t care so we walked to Campo square where we tried to identify some non-tourist trap to eat in. Failing, we walked out of the square and into one of the best pizza shops to date. Of course being wet and a bit tired we ate communally and I took no photos of food. A small beer later, my spirits restored, we walked around on our own for a while stopping into a cafe for a cappa and double cappa. I was hoping if I ordered a dopio cappuccino, I would get a 2oz espresso cappa. Nope. I did however find out how to get a latte. hehehe. How do I get a double-espresso, cappa in Italian? Have to find that out for next time. We never got to feel comfortable as we then got on the bus and headed towards San Gimignano. The sun however did greet us as we arrived at our destination.

San Gimignano, a town of towers. I can only imagine what it must have been like back in the day. A tower was how you showed you had wealth. The more towers the more money, the higher the better. If you were to lose your wealth a town might decapitate your tower to keep you in check. Crazy times in deed. In San Gimignano we only had a little over an hour. I wish we had more time because this place is just a little gem. It wouldn’t take more than a day, but it just feels so nice. Corridors of streets, the gothic nature of the towers, and the countryside so green and fertile. Beautiful. We stopped at one of Italy’s famed gelato shops, “Gelateria di Piazza”, and enjoyed some of the richest gelato on our journey. It had won the national gelato compeitition so many times they withdrew to allow others to win. We ended up just meandering through the town and soon found it time to return to our bus.

The day before we left Florence we visited the Boboli Gardens. In the surroundings of Florence it is all populated. You don’t get to catch much of a green countryside except here or if you leave the city all together. If you have been to European palaces many have a “garden”. A garden can constitute acres of land that might have pools, arenas, fountains, statues, guest houses, etc. They are very large, very ornate, and I think we all wish we had one, hehe. One of the things I am constantly in awe of is how much artistry was put in to everything and how I miss it in the States. The gardens took about three hours of walking to encompass and enjoy it all. Since we had paced out the area before we went to the gardens, for dinner we decided to go to “Osteria Santo Spirito”. Which as you can guess was off the Piazza Santo Spirito. A very young and hip crowd lives in this area and a more relaxed feel can be felt over the Arno, rather than in Florence proper. For dinner we enjoyed fresh pasta, lamb, chicken, and veggies. Robin and I also got quite squirrelly off a bottle of wine.

All in all Florence is a wonderous and beautiful place to visit. It offers days of things to do and enough places to eat to keep anyone satisfied. We could have stayed over a week and indulged in more of the museums and a broader sweep of the region, but on to Venice we went!

Florence, Italy, Part 1 of 2

// June 8th, 2005 // 1 Comment » // Excursions


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Prior Pages: Cinque Terre

To get into Florence we had to change trains outside the city and head towards Santa Maria Novella station. Our train skills had improved enough we got our tickets rapidly and we were there before we knew it. A short walk around the corner and a few additional blocks brought us to Hotel Aprile. We checked in but had to wait a half hour for our room so we scavenged their booklet bins and sat down in there patio to figure out the plans. We mapped out a few of the suggested restaurants we brought with us and then found a tour group doing a Siena / San Gimignano trip on Monday. We thought it a good idea at the time and booked later that afternoon. Our evening walk was at 5:45p, with that in mind and a few restaurants at hand we were ready.

We really didn’t know what to expect out of any of our rooms as we booked them. Hotels can make something look one way online or in photos but until you’ve stayed in the region you just don’t know. Hotel Aprile was pretty fantastic. When we got our room we were treated to vaulted ceilings and spaciousness that we had not afforded any place as of yet. A view of Santa Maria Novella church from the window, and the courtyard below, we had been given one of the quiet rooms away from the main street. Fabulous. We explored the area surrounding the hotel and grabbed panini for lunch then went back to our room to get ready for the evening.

We got to our meeting spot for the _Florence Evening Walk_ a little early so we stopped in a bar/cafe for some caffeine. It was rather foul which was disappointing but there is no excuse to scalded milk in Italy! heheheh. The tour however was another story. Our guide was Freya a cute little Australian blonde that had come to Italy for 3 months of language lessons and ended up staying five years. She took us across the Trinity bridge and gave some nice stories of local lore and old Medici intrigue.

After a good hour or so walk we stopped at a wine bar and enjoyed a wine from San Gimignano, Vernaccia. Freya gave us all tips on where to eat which turned out to be off the charts. After Freya left we went to _Sasso di Dante_ with an Australian mother and daughter duo, Carroll & Kathy, that was on the tour with us. This was probably the best time we had our whole trip. Our dinner mates were great company, and the food we had at Dante’s was just amazing. We got a bottle of Chianti, a filet w/ cognac sauce, a filet with peppercorn sauce, an herb & cheese gnocchi. The peppercorn steak and gnocchi were the best I have ever had. Simply writing about it makes me salivate. After finishing the wine and meal, Kathy got her mom & Robin into another mezzo (1/2liter) while I sipped on a single caffe’. Then, to top it all, our great waiter brings over a chilled bottle of lemoncello and shot glasses. A digestive he called it. Woooo.. It was snappy! We enjoyed a few sipped shots of that and stumbled our way home. Excellent suggestion from Freya!

The next morning I thought I would try and use the “Internet Point” that the hotel provided. It was a rather cheap windows box with some bad pay as you go ware on it. I picked up a scan pass and began to check my mail when I noticed the international keyboard for the first time. Well that sure did throw me for a loop. I still don’t know how to get the @ sign. I got what I needed done through as little duress as I could muster. Everything seemed quiet at home which is always nice. I did note the little technical geek in me that they were using ADSL and I could probably hijack their connection, which I did so on two occasions. I paid for my time didn’t I?

We packed our day bag and had decided that our targets for the day were the Accademia & to see one of the Leonardo da Vinci exhibits. To get to the Accademia we went through San Lorenzo square which is also the street Market (Mercato). Here we saw blocks and blocks of wares of all sorts. Shirts, bags, glasses, glass, plates, belts, leather products galore. In the middle of all this is their large market which has a bottom floor full of 2x2 blocks of meat, poultry, fish, while upstairs has all their fresh vegetables & fruits. Quite amazing. I am so jealous. We kept on going and ended up waiting a small spell in the reservation line (always good if you don’t want to wait 1+hrs). The Accademia really isn’t as large as I had thought. Michael is the largest attractor which was great to see. I am still amazed at how much artisan-craftsmanship was needed to make such a thing. After that we cruised through many rooms of religious artifacts and an exhibit on the history of music.

Leaving the Accademia we headed a few streets and blocks away to where an exhibit on Leonardo da Vinci bringing his sketches to life. You can see through his work that many ideas in the world were linking together. Ancient thoughts, old thoughts, modern thoughts, renaissance thoughts, all merging together to form so many of the fundamentals we still use today. It would have been neat to see the man in action.

More on Florence later..
Florence Part 2 of 2

Quickie from Florence

// June 5th, 2005 // Comments Off // Excursions

We are currently in Florence with a day trip to Siena and San Gimignano tomorrow. Internet connections are easy to come by, wireless is near impossible here. It’s hard wanting to share what we are up to but not really being able to. I’m taking notes and writing entries as I can but they all need some TLC so I’ll probably do like some I know and publish when we get home.

It’s been a great trip thus far. Milan, Cinque Terre, Florence, molto bene.

-a

Hello.. Goodbye.. Buongiorno

// May 27th, 2005 // 1 Comment » // On the Radar

I have been so busy.. so very very very busy.. My day jobs office is moving. If moving weren’t a difficult enough thing we’ve decided to cut out our infrastructure and really go lean. Not a bad thing at all, but I’m going on vacation and coming back right when our move occurs. I think my corner of the world is tight. We have a lot to do on my return, last minute data tosses and a whole lot of shutting down. Be on the lookout if your local for a craigslist bonanza.

That’s taking day and night cycles. Overlapping that is Italy, which I must say I think we’ve done a great job. We have the hotels, trains, museums, and tour all booked. I’ve hopefully cracked open my Treo from the grip of AT&T and have purchased a Italy TIM card.

We will be staying at the following:
* Milan, Hotel Baveria Mokinba

* Monterosso, Hotel 5 Terre

* Florence, Hotel Aprile

* Venice, Pensione La Calcina

We’ve spec’d out a number of restaurant’s from resources in print, web, and referral. I think our palate will be sufficiently overwhelmed. We are also planning a day trip to San Gimignano which I hear has the worlds best chocolate gelato. Ah the many wonderful things to run around at.

In tow will be a bag of clothes and a backpack full of technology, books, and maps. Boy are we styling. ;-) If you are around one of these area’s when we are (May 31-June 9), drop me an email and lets grab a cappa o del vino.

A lot of people helped pay for this trip. It’s part honeymoon, part vacation, and part business research. Thanks to all those who are making it possible.

-a