Archive for Culinary

Slow Food Charlotte Terra Madre Recap

// March 9th, 2007 // Comments Off // Culinary

SFC Terra Madre Talk, 4
On Wednesday the local Slow Food Charlotte convivia gathered at the Art Institute of Charlotte to hear about the travels of the delegates that went to Terra Madre. They tasted and witnessed a panorama of culinary delights. They also got charged by the passion of the thousands of agri people who were in attendance and great panels attended.

Thom & Nancy Duncan, Joe Bonaparte, Sammy & Melinda Koeningsberg, & Laura Beach gave recounts. Jump on over to the Slow Food Charlotte site and watch some of the footage I shot at the meeting.

As always if you want to look through the window of your plate and grasp more of the story behind it join Slow Food today!

Caffe Fresco Flossies Blend

// December 31st, 2006 // Comments Off // Culinary, Reviews

Caffe Fresco Flossie's Blend

Caffe Fresco has brought out a nice blend that can function in any role from espresso to press. Tony has done this by making a fairly bold blend that teeters into the french roast arena. This lets it stand up and not get lost on any of the levels. After touring some Yirgs this coffee had some gravity I had to adjust to. Since we ordered a few bags I’ve got some voluminous descriptors. In our first set I’m going through initial opening and three seperate cuppings. Then how it was as an espresso to cappuccinos.

This blend was created to support the Young Survival Coalition through their Tour de Pink.

Flossie’s Blend is a creation from deep within Fresco’s soul. A place where Vision is fueledby a promise to Flossie. Vision, along with patience and gumption, makes Fresco a viableentity. Fresco is ready to bring forward a message and cause, that’s been a long time coming!

— Caffe Fresco

Cupping / Vac Pot / French Press Notes

Bag Opening

  • Steak
  • Stew
  • Fajitas

Fragrance

  • Cigar
  • Pipe Tobacco
  • Dry Soil
  • Old Earth
  • Leaves
  • Raisins
  • M&M(tm) Shell/Coating
  • Brownies
  • Pie Crust

Aroma

  • Outgassing (day 3)
  • Cigar—burning
  • Chocolate Souffle
  • Steaming Brownie

Fragrance

  • Dark Chocolate x3
  • Chocolate Cherries
  • Vegetal
  • Sea / Ocean

Body

  • Rich
  • Thick

Aftertaste

  • Mild Smokey
  • Lingered

Espresso

Aroma

  • Dark Caramel

Flavor

  • Tart
  • Apples
  • Crisp / Snappy
  • Easter Bunny Chocolate
  • Raspberries

Aftertaste

  • Clean
  • Smooth
  • Hint of Grain
  • Cider

Cappuccino / Dessert (+sugar)

Flavor

  • Chocolate
  • Marshmallows
  • Rich and Creamy
  • Velvety
  • Full bodied, robust
  • Hint of Cherry


Afterthoughts; this blend in the vac/press realm kept toggling between a Kenya french roast or a full city+ Sumatra. It had enough boldness that I always wanted some milk to cut it. As an espresso it really had that classico Italian experience that really smoothed out with milk and softened with sugar. Venture here for something you can tour around your kitchen and feel good about supporting a good cause.

technorati tags:, , caffefresco, ,

Aida’s Grand Reserve

// December 8th, 2006 // 9 Comments » // Culinary, Interests

El Salvador Grand Reserve, Beans 2

[Counter Culture Coffee](http://www.counterculturecoffee.com) has stepped up to the plate again with their new limited offering, El Salvador Grand Reserve Peaberry aka [Aida’s Grand Reserve](http://www.counterculturecoffee.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=61&category_id=3&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=72). This coffee was hotly debated in our cupping room and has since spread across vines; [Phil](http://onion-bean.blogspot.com/2006/11/aidas-grand-reserve.html), & [Jon](http://www.peacelovecoffee.com/blog/?p=63) are on board, as well it looks like [Murky](http://www.murkycoffee.com/2006/11/updates.html), 3 Cups, Pheasant Creek and a few others might actually have this darling on tap. That is if you’re ready for the new price ceiling of $45 a bag, that would break down to relatively 5.60 for a cup of coffee.

There are a lot of questions when you start delving into coffee. Most people don’t understand the sacrifice to the land and to the people for that .59c cup of joe at the gas station. Then again most people don’t understand their own local food chain, getting them to understand a foreign one is an even greater challenge. I asked [PeterG](http://www.flickr.com/photos/ciordia/72139376/) to help me understand what is going on here. I can be sold on ideas, I love new ideas! Here are a few choice selections from our conversation:

>Aida sorted peaberries from her three farms, which happen to be the three most desirable farms in El Salvador, from the coffee buyer’s perspective. Because she has a direct and very open relationship with her buyers, she approached us for input on what she should do with this coffee: i.e. submit it to the cup of excellence, offer it at private auction, etc.

>[…] Remember, the last time Aida’s farms saw auction they set records for the most ever paid for coffee (Kilimanjaro in 2003) and was the first-ever time a coffee producer had two coffees finish in the finals of a Cup of Excellence (also 2003). In contrast to the Petersons’ Esmeralda, Aida has shied away from the flashy auctions, and instead opted for direct, transparent, and committed transactions. Putting this coffee out to bid just was not consistent with that philosophy.

>[…] coffees at this level are about nuance rather than flash.

Peter and I agree on a lot. We want the coffee growers to feel like they can grow, can flourish, evolve without the bastardizing megaconglomerates taking whatever they want from the land and paying the individual less than sustainable. We also know that coffee in it’s next form is in it’s infancy. We are just now coming to terms with genetic impacts beyond anything our forefathers ever knew. It’s an exciting time to be in coffee as long as the world holds together.

What does this cup offer us beyond my notes below? It’s exactly what you want in a cup, just enough brightness, a smoothness paralleled only by other fantastic coffees, a stability that you’d expect from an award winning coffee. There are a myriad of little subtle notes that require a little inversion to meditate on. It really is a beautiful assembly roasted by artisans.

To me it’s a great step in the continued growth of the specialty community. To my father who drinks Folgers pods I doubt I will be able to get him to consider this a viable alternative. However the continued exposure I and others bring to these gems in an ocean of mediocrity it is my hope that we can continue to strive for that higher bar as humanists and nurturing better products out of the environment.

Cupping Notes

El Salvador Grand Reserve, CoG 2

Fragrance

* Dried Fruit
* Lavender
* Peach Fuzz
* Milk Chocolate

Aroma

* Leather
* Tea like
* Green Grape Skin
* Cashew

On Break

El Salvador Grand Reserve, Press

* Plum
* Wet Soil

Brightness

* 5:10
* 6:10
* Snappy

Flavor

* Cashew / Macadamia
* Caramel Sauce

El Salvador Grand Reserve, in the cup

* Pear or Grape Skin
* Cardamom

Body

* Nice Coating
* Expected
* Round

Aftertaste

* Clean Finish
* Light Cling
* Very Stable

Caffè Fresco Ambrosia Espresso

// August 28th, 2006 // 2 Comments » // Culinary, Reviews

After much cajoling from Noll we took on some new espresso and coffee’s from [Caffè Fresco](http://www.doubleff.com/).



Tony Sciandra, the proprietor of [Caffè Fresco](http://www.doubleff.com/) makes a strong effort to educate those who buy his product. The general rules of thumb are posted on the site as well as in your purchase email he goes to a good length to make sure you understand how to use what you are purchasing.

>Fresco’s gentle roasting style ideally requires our espresso to have a min. of 5 days of rest after roast. Coffee, 3 days after roast. Day 8 is when the degassing completely subsides. For the sake of freshness it’s best to let the beans degas in their heat-sealed, one-way valved bags.

The Prime Flavor Window coincides with the rest and degassing. Our espresso begins to come into the window at day 5, and the optimum days are 7 through 14.

Your coffee has been roasted to a true Full City roast level. Therefore, for proper extraction use of a scale is suggested to measure the weight of the bean dosage. Suggest, 0.3 oz. of bean per 6 oz of water for coffee and 7 to 8 grams of bean for a single-shot of espresso.

This takes a lot of guess work out for new consumers and lets even those of us vetted to see roaster recommendations which help keep us in line. Tony lets you know the brew range as well to further create that perfect cup.

Enough common talk, what did we find. We started note taking on day 4, and finished the blend around day 12. I have to say this is one of the smoothest espresso’s I’ve had. Smooth is kind of hard to translate, was it the flavor, the body, the texture..what is smooth. Smoooth daddy-o. It was all of those things and more. It’s the most reocurring thought we had.

### Fragrance
* Caramel
* Mexican Hot Chocolate

### Aroma
* Roasty
* Clean
* Semi-Dry
* Wood…Birch maybe
* Sweet Cigar, mild

### Brightness / Acidity
* 3:5
* 2.5:5
* 4:5
* 3:5

### Taste
* Honey
* Clove
* Apple
* Cinnamon
* Toasted Almonds
* Ripe Banana

### Body
* Medium
* Comfortable

### Aftertaste
* Pastry
* Tart
* Mild Linger, then gone.

I would recommend this coffee to anyone from the beginner to a classic afficionado. As a shot it was refreshing and crisp turned into a cappuccino to latte it sweetens and near dessertifies (new word!). I found it never too heavy, never too bold. All things considered it’s just right, and it ages well too. I left one shot (beans) in the hopper and even at 20+ days it still retains much of it’s normal characteristics.

Here’s to quality purveyors of fine quality beans and practices. If you’re looking to try something new give [Caffè Fresco](http://www.doubleff.com/) some love.

-a

Steve. It’s all about you.

// May 5th, 2006 // 7 Comments » // Culinary

I thought I would throw out some appreciation to a fellow geek, [Steve](spnakr007.blogspot.com/), aka [Spinnaker](http://www.flickr.com/photos/spinnaker007/). I’ve known Steve for a couple years now. We’re both espresso enthusiasts, both trying to open a cafe; we’re brothers-in-arms. Steve has mojo when it comes to learning and excelling at new coffee techniques and the longer you let him go the better he gets.

Check out his current latte art skill. This guy is killing me.



Look at his [flickr](http://www.flickr.com/photos/spinnaker007/) feed for more goodness.

Recently we sparked a little idea on doing online barista competitions through google video. Would anyone say his video is like throwing down the gauntlet? hehehhe! Sure wets my appetite.

Anyhow, it’s fun Steve. You rock. What are we learning next?